I
have one more flamingo in my passport and one more plastic medallion on my BCD. Another
trip to Bonaire is over. I have now logger 75 dives on the reefs surrounding Bonaire and
Klein Bonaire. I made 28 dives on this trip and spent 26 hours and 21 minutes in the
crystal clear waters. (I would have had 30 dives but we got a little lazy after dinner and
skipped the night dives two nights we were there.
This was my first trip to Bonaire since the storm, Lenny, sent huge waves that
hit the island from the northwest and damaged many of the coral reefs and seaside
structures. I was anxious to see if my favorite place to dive had been changed
dramatically.
Our first day dives were at Windsock and Alice in Wonderland. I
experienced two emotions pulling me in opposite directions. At times I wanted to cry when
I saw the damage Lenny had done to the reef but that sadness would quickly be overwhelmed
by the awesome underwater seascapes of massive gardens of coral filled with abundant fish
and sea creatures.
The flat shallows that we swam over going to and returning from the wall were
the first changes that were evident. I remembered how the areas of white sand used to be
scattered with fire coral, staghorn, elkhorn, and brain coral with various soft types of
soft coral and sea urchins sprinkled in for visual effect. Small fish life was plentiful.
It made the swim out and back and safety stops very entertaining.
Now the area was a flat, barren, white sandy bottom with areas of broken, dead
staghorn coral.
Once we dropped down over the wall, the still healthy reef was littered with
lumber, tires, metal posts and other debris from seaside structures that had been
destroyed and drug into the sea by the crashing waves. To think that this protected marine
park was once a healthy pristine underwater paradise and now parts of it were littered
with debris and leveled, was a very depressing feeling that made me want to cry.
As I swam along the wall, I was overwhelmed by the beauty, diversity and
abundance of the coral that remained on the wall. Plentiful fish and sea creatures kept
pulling my eyes from one spot to another. I was never able to watch one as long as I would
like because my attention would quickly be distracted by something even more appealing or
mystifying. There was so much to see that my senses could only take in a small amount of
it. Eels, shrimp, sponges, lobster, squid as well as almost every type and color of fish
and coral that were so thick, it was hard to see any sand between them. Then I looked to
my left and the garden eels over 70 feet below me as they poked their little heads up out
of the sandy bottom to eat.
It suddenly dawned on me; "I can see something as small as a garden eel so
far away, and the coral and fish life are still healthier and more beautiful than I have
seen anywhere else in my diving travels." I quickly realized that even with the
damage done by the storm, Bonaire is still one of the places to dive. My favorite dive
trips would have to be Bonaire before the storm and my second favorite would be Bonaire
after the storm. In fact, I saw more fish, eels, seahorses, rays and turtles on this trip
than on any previous trips.